Tree Safari to Mount Elgon

Where we learn how to save a forest (and ourselves too)

A mist clings to the trees as we step onto the forest path, our feet sinking into the damp earth. We are in Mount Elgon National Park, on the border of Kenya and Uganda, where an ancient, extinct volcano is covered in dense, misty forest. As we walk, we smell the sweet scent of flowering Vepris nobilis trees, and hear the distant sound of a waterfall and the honks of hornbills and turacos overhead. "Look up," says our guide, Paul, pointing to the towering canopy. We are surrounded by giants—African olive trees (Olea europea ssp. cuspidata) and their even taller relatives– Olea welwitschii, known as Elgon olive trees because they are so common on the mountain.

We reach a grove of Podo trees (Afrocarpus falcatus), and stand in awe beneath Chief Kasis, one of the largest trees on the mountain. Twelve people can hold hands around its trunk! Paul tells us it could be over 300 years old. We are filled with wonder at the beauty of this forest and grandeur of its ancient trees.

But, as we continue on our journey, we notice something worrying. We see the stumps of recently cut trees close to the path. They are African olive trees, slow growing trees which might have been over a hundred years old. It will take decades for new olive trees to grow to replace them. Paul tells us that people from outside the park have been cutting trees because there are none left on their own land.

We had noticed that there are very few trees growing outside the park fence. The environment is completely different too. Inside the park it feels cool and fresh. Outside it is hot, dry, and dusty. Without trees to hold it in place, the soil blows it away, and the rain washes it into rivers. If this continues, the fields will become infertile, and crops won’t grow. And if people keep cutting the trees inside the park, the mountain itself will dry out and the rivers will stop flowing.

Paul and his fellow guides, Philip, Silas and David have been watching with sadness as their beloved forest is destroyed. They understand why it is happening. The trees outside the forest are gone, but people still need wood for cooking, building, and to raise income.

Reflecting on the situation, the guides realized there was a possible solution. Exotic trees like eucalyptus, grevillea, and cypress grow much faster than most forest trees. They can be harvested within 10 to 15 years. If villagers plant these on their own land they won’t need to cut from the forest.

Determined to make a difference, Philip, Paul and their team started a tree nursery at the park gate, where they can care for the tree seedlings between guiding visitors. Their project, Mount Elgon Nature Conservation community based organisation, provides tree seedlings to local households and schools to create small woodlots—areas where fast-growing trees supply firewood and building materials. The goal is simple: if each household plants 30-50 trees, they will never need to cut from the forest again.

The next day, we visit the nursery and see rows of seedlings ready to be planted when the rains arrive. We visit Mr Victor Kibet, a local farmer who has planted exotic fast-growing trees on his land. As we walk through the fields, we notice that the houses with woodlots look green and inviting. Their shade provides a good environment to plant fruit trees like mango and avocado.

Philip tells us, “These days, everyone wants to plant trees.” The project is working, and people are beginning to see the benefits. The Mount Elgon Foundation has stepped in to support their work and to purchase for seedlings for school woodlots.

Paul and his team have a bold vision for the future. They want every family in the villages around Mt Elgon to have their own woodlot. That way, future generations will have enough wood for their needs without harming the forest. They also plan to replant the bare riverbanks with indigenous trees like the magnificent Elgon olives and Podo trees. Some will take decades to mature, but one day, their grandchildren will walk through a restored forest, thankful for the work their ancestors did.

As we leave Mount Elgon, we feel inspired by what we have seen. A group of local guides, armed with knowledge and determination, has found a way to protect the forest while helping their community thrive. Their experience shows that conservation is not about choosing between people and nature: it’s about finding ways for both to flourish together.

Do you think that this solution could work where you live? Or have you come across any other ideas doing something similar? If so let us know.

You can email us at treesafari@gmail.com

Acknowledgements

A big thank you to Philip Chepso, Paul Chonge, and the entire team at Mount Elgon Nature Conservation CBO. Thanks also to the Mount Elgon Foundation for supporting their important work. Thank you Mark Nicholson for your checking the botanical facts.  Any remaining errors are my own.

To support the tree nursery and learn more about Mount Elgon Nature Conservation community based organisation, reach out to Philip and his team. You can contact them on mtelgonnature@gmail.com Learn more about the work of and the Mount Elgon Foundation here 

Visiting Mount Elgon

You can stay in the national park in the bandas or the Koitoboss Guest House.

Roads are well-marked, making it easy to navigate.

To arrange a guided tour, contact Philip Chepso 0728169847

Mount Elgon Biosphere reserve

UNESCO’s Man and Biosphere programme aims to promote a balanced relationship between nature conservation and sustainable human activities. Biosphere sites are  internationally recognised for their ecological importance and model approach to sustainability. There are currently 759 biosphere reserves in the world.  Six are in Kenya. Mt Elgon became a Biosphere reserve in 2003, and in 2023 this status was extended to include both sides of the mountain across Kenya and Uganda. In March 2025 Kenya and Uganda signed an agreement to work together to protect its rich biodiversity while also supporting the local communities who depend on it. You can read more about the agreement here.

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